Shirakawago is a timeless glimpse at a bygone era and a place everyone visiting Japan should make an effort to get to. And it does need effort as it’s not the closest place to the main touristy draw cards. From its nearest big city, Nagoya, it’s about a 3hr tour bus ride or 4hr by train and bus on public transport.
So, how about riding? It’s about 150km directly north from Nagoya and ought to take two to two and a half hours. However, I rode from Yokohama and the shortest route is around 360km and from Matsumoto to Takayama has some great twisties and fantastic views. But, winter snow and ice makes the short route dicy if it’s open. So, it was a safe 450km+ mostly expressway jaunt.
Whether you choose the short n twisty or long and high speed expressway, the short and long route take about the same amount of time.5am and a big bright moon was lighting the way out.The sun came out passing Mt. Fuji but the temps hovered around 5°c. I finally gave in to the cold and pulled into Hamamatsu SA to put on the heated base layer and gloves. Glad I did as the climb north out of the Chubu area saw the temp sneak down to 2°c. That last long 11km tunnel before Shirakawago was a very welcomed 22°c for a good stretch. 🔥Was a little difficult getting over the pessimism brought on by the previous failures. Seeing dodgy surfaces when there weren’t any and keeping a strict count on kilometres to upcoming exits, just in case… 2014 was the worst when caught out and stranded by an unexpected blizzard.
Making it to that last long tunnel was like Shirakawago was rolling out a big warm welcome mat for all the effort.
There it is caked in winter’s wonder.Covid culled crowds made it easy to get pics.With the sun illuminating the snow and the wood of the gassho zukuri rich brown with inner warmth and clinging moisture, it was just as captivating and worthwhile as I’d hoped for.
Got to get back and stay longer next time… Next time… How many attempts and years will that take? 😂
Touge Express 